Archive for the ‘Rebels!’ Category

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Life in a Cultural Center, 1964

By early August the American Cultural Center in Coquilhatville was manned by two American officers, Tom Madison and Fred Hunter and three Congolese: Iwo Pierre, who had done a “stage” in the US, N’Djoku Pierre (n’djoku means elephant) and Ahenga Raphael, a driver. The center included a library of books about the US or written by Americans, a film program that showed films locally and in the bush and an effort to circulate various materials – newspapers, pamphlets, magazines, even books – to target audiences and connect with opinion-makers.

Working with Congolese was often taxing, both for us and for them. Snippets from a letter suggest the problems – on both sides.

“I’ve been telling Tom for some weeks that I think we must supervise these guys more carefully. It simply is not fair for us to get upset with their mistakes if we are not giving them enough supervisory support. I do not agree with Tom’s giving Iwo instructions in English. He does this, Iwo fakes comprehension, then Tom is upset when the job is not satisfactory. More and more, I see our relationships with the men who work for us in terms of grammar school teacher and pupils. This is really a kind of classroom laboratory experience in ‘How We Do a Job.’

“For example, I badger N’Djoku three times a week to straighten up the Nouveaux Horizons books that are his responsibility. I ask, “Who takes care of these books?” He is silent for a long moment, his brow furrowed, his jaws clasped firm, his mind a tiny nucleus of concentration. “I do,” he says finally. If I pose a question to which the answer is for us either yes or no, N’Djoku gives a long pause. “I must think,” he says. Of course, he is deciding what answer will do him the least harm. Pierre Bogaerts feels this is merely another approach to truth. It’s amusing when you have time for it, but I feel unhappy at having to badger these guys…

“Iwo, Raphael and I went to Bikoro Friday afternoon to show movies in the town itself and at a rubber plantation. We’d written a letter and telegraphed the time we’d be there, but neither telegram nor letter arrived. We must still solve the problem of calling people to the showings. We drove through the cité calling, ‘Cinéma ce soir å la plaine de football.’ We got about 500 at each showing.” We set up a translucent screen so that people could sit on either side and a projector on the film truck. At first I thought grassy spots were more desirable, but soon learned that people wanted to sit on dirt where the likelihood of snakes or rats were less.

Setting up a film show

“After the showings I was tired and went immediately to the lodgings provided in an abandoned house overlooking Lake Tumba. A crude bed and mattress and rats skittering across the floor. (I put everything out of their reach on a windowsill, except a box of matches and a candle I waxed to the floor.) Having brought my own water, pillow and sheet, I was quite comfortable. Bouncing along African roads really takes it out of me. I slept most of yesterday afternoon after we got back.”

The letter goes on: “Rebels operating out of Congo-Brazzaville (where they have training camps and 5,000 Communist advisors, so it’s said, are advising them) crossed the Congo River during last week to take Bolobo, a mission station and port town, 120-150 miles south of Coq. Troops were flown from Coq to Bolobo and reports yesterday were that Bolobo had been retaken. Should rebels entrench themselves at Lukolela and Inongo, capital of our neighboring province to the south, Bikoro will emerge as a likely target with Coq waiting like a jewel at the end of 125 kms of road.

“I think it would be rather amusing to be evacuated. As I was telling Madison, if that happened I would have crowded into two years in the Foreign Service all the possibilities of the life: service in an important European capital [I had served in Brussels]; in the capital and bush of an underdeveloped country; set up a post; taken bush trips, etc., etc. If I could cap it off with an evacuation, all the rest would be repetition.”

Staff of USIS Coq: Iwo Pierre with wife, left, Tom Madison, right

Next post: The possibility of evacuation becomes real.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part One

Recapping the backstory of these posts:

Just off a training tour with US Information Service in Brussels, Belgium, Fred Hunter was sent to a remote outpost in the northwest Congo, a town called Coquilhatville, the former capital of the Belgian colonial province of Equateur. His assignment: establish an American Cultural Center. After months of isolation, made bearable by a friendship with a Belgian couple, Jules and Thérèse André, he opened the center.

Fred Hunter

Shortly afterward, USIS decided that two officers should man all Congo posts. It sent, on direct transfer from the Philippines, a more experienced officer to take charge of the center. Tom Madison, as he’s called in this account, felt some surprise – frustration even – at being rusticated to a Congo backwater to supervise an enterprise that seemed marginal at best. However, he and his wife, who soon joined him and whom I’ll call Sally, were able to piggyback on the contacts I’d made, especially with the Andrés. By this time I had rented a house from the Andrés in the town center, across from the headquarters of the United Nations group in the Equateur.

Soon long-festering political unrest to the south burst into rebellion. The conflict was anti-government, anti-colonial, anti-American. It quickly engulfed the eastern Congo. Then Stanleyville fell to the rebels. USIS offifcers at the Cultural Center there managed to flee as the Simbas entered the city. The American Consul and Vice-Consul (CIA) remained in the town as diplomats, hoping to be treated accordingly. Instead, they were taken hostage, jailed and threatened with death.

Stan’s fall opened the door to the country’s northwest. The embassy installed single sideband radio transmitters in all branch posts, and Tom’s skill as a ham radio operator proved useful, linking us to the world beyond the Congo River swamps that surrounded Coquilhatville.

If the rebels’ ultimate objective was the capital Léopoldville, Coq was an obvious rebel target, the next large town on the way there. Geography made it dangerous. Only one road led in and out of Coq, from the south and east; the rebels would arrive on that road. They could easily knock out the airstrip by putting obstacles on the runway. That would leave only the Congo River as an escape route.

Rumors began to fly: that Coq’s fall was inevitable; that Congolese soldiers would run rather than fight; that a rebel fifth column was already infiltrating the town; that Europeans – as all whites were called – would face even more danger than four years earlier when in June, 1960, the Congo achieved independence. At that time violence led to panic and a wholesale flight of Europeans. We at the American Cultural Center did not want to get trapped in the town. But how real was the danger? Congolese soldiers could easily blunt the rebel attack by making a stand at Ingende where the road crossed the Ruki. But would they?

Feeling I was witnessing significant events, I made a record of them. The following posts, based on letters and notes, offer an account of what happened.

[In preparing these posts, I realize that some passages of the letters show a nastiness that does not reflect well on me. Some editors might excise them. But in times of extreme tension people get on each others' nerves. That's the case here. There seems no point in providing a memoir of stressful times, in which we don't see people reacting to stress. So my apologies to my colleagues of those difficult times if these posts cause heartache or offense. It's almost 50 years later. I hope the intervening years have been good to you.]

from a letter dated Coquilhatville 29 August 64 Saturday

Hi,
Things have considerably changed since I last wrote you only three days ago. Thursday morning the DCCM started wholesale evacuation of its upriver mission stations. Tom Madison came in from Léo Thursday morning with John Mowinckel, the new Country Public Affairs Officer [the top USIS man}, and two military attachés. Evidently he and Mowinckel have agreed that we will evacuate if either Lisala [to the north] or Boende [to the east] falls to the rebels. But military intelligence indicates that there is no reason to believe that any rebel military thrust is planned into the province. As always, however, the ANC flees before rumors, pillaging, terrorizing villages, causing panic, distrust and anarchy, deepening the popular hatred of the Army.

Last night about 11:45 as the Madisons, missionary Betty Erlewine and I were playing bridge, we heard bursts of sub-machine gun fire coming from one of the communes. Today Army reinforcements were sent to Boende to restore order there after ANC withdrawal and pillaging. In Coq plans were made to round up and expel political agitators.

Governor Engulu was supposed to return to Coq on Bugsmasher, the Army Attaché plane that brought Madison, Mowinckel & Co. Paul Efambe, his Minister of Finance who acts as Governor in Engulu’s absence, came onto the tarmac, all rigged out in a wool suit and topcoat (it was chilly for Coq; I myself wore a long-sleeved shirt). No Engulu. Has he bugged out? The question hung over all of us, unspoken but obvious. You could see Efambe’s mind grappling with the possibility that he’s been left holding the sack. Rumors spread in town now that Engulu left here with ten suitcases. Lovely.

We assume that Engulu will appear in the next day or two.

I don’t know how thoroughly Tom went over with John Mowinckel the questions we raised in a rather long memo. Tom’s received carte blanche to do whatever he thinks will best serve US interests in Coq. Since we will not be getting any classified information (our communication facilities and our files do not permit us to have it), it’s nice to feel that we can go ahead with what we feel needs to be done.

Mowinckel’s a tall, thick-boned fellow of Norwegian stock with a budding pot-belly and an earthy manner. He’s got the build of a beer-loving lumberjack, a broad-hipped walk, his toes pointing sharply outward, his feet spread about a foot from each other. This is his first non-European assignment and he’s responding to Africa with zest. He kept insisting that I drove too fast as we toured beauteous Coq, kept marveling at the virility of the river, at the beauty of the pirogues on its beige surface at high noon (sunset’s the time!), kept talking about trying to get the REAL FEEL of Africa. He seems pleased with the challenges of the assignment. Also capable of making fast decisions and of making them himself.

I should perhaps sketch in for you (and for my record) some of the things that have been happening lately.

Wednesday evening as I was coming home, I stopped off at the post office to put your letters into the mail drop. As I got out of the car, a soldier about two-thirds my size came charging at me with a bayonet, the rest of him jingling with all kinds of equipment. “Nkena! Nkena!” he shouted at me. “Scram!” The bayonet must have been a foot long, and you don’t argue with it. Another Alpha November Charlie [ANC} came up and explained to my tormentor in Lingala that I only wanted to post a letter. I was then allowed to do this. When I got back into the car, my saviour took out a dirty handkerchief, opened it and asked me if I wanted to buy diamonds. What an outfit!

The bayonet business didn’t shake me up so much as it griped and depressed me. You keep asking yourself: “Why should we do anything for these idiots?” “Messieurs, nous voici pour vous aider!” cries the UN expert as he’s hacked to death with machetes north of Bukavu. Blatt! As anarchy grows, it’s increasingly difficult to see all this in the historical perspective, in long-range terms.

Radio Stan, now under rebel control, broadcasts regularly, unsettling the region and encouraging acts against authority and Americans. The rebels have threatened reprisals against Americans. An MEU missionary at Bolenge, Ron Myers, was warned by his houseboy to leave because “the people in Bolenge hate you and they want your possessions.” {Missionary] Henry Dugan found it rough going driving from Mondombe [station] to Monieka [station] by microbus last Wednesday. He was stopped several times along the way, once by a Congolese officer who ordered him to drive him to Coq. (“Vous êtes chargé de me conduire à Coq.”) As the guy was moving around the microbus to get in, Henry gunned it and bugged out. As he did, jeunesse ran out of the forest along the side of the road. Henry looked pretty shaken when I saw him early Thursday afternoon at the mission offices. It is not rebels so much as jeunesse (which has come to mean local bands of discontented youth and unemployed) that now menace the region – and, of course, the fleeing, pillaging Army.

Next post: Coquins leave Coq; panic grows.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part Two

As the rebellion gains force, the likelihood of Coq’s being threatened seems inevitable. Rumors fly around the town. Coquins flee to Léopoldville.

from a letter dated Coquilhatville 29 August 64 Saturday

Went out to the airport Thursday afternoon. The military attachés had gone to fly over Lisala and Bumba [north of Coq], and Madison and I went to meet their plane while Sally showed Mowinckel the sights. (The plane didn’t arrive till 6:00; we were a little worried by then.) It was a shock to see the airport parking lot simply filled with cars, left hastily where they’re not usually parked. Couldn’t help thinking of stories of cars abandoned at the Léo-Brazza ferry dock at the time of independence. Were people abandoning their cars now and leaving Coq? Inside the waiting room was full of people. Why? No particular reason, I guess, except that two Air Congo planes took off for Léo within half an hour of each other. Rumors and incipient panic are in the air.

The Andrés were there because that afternoon Benoit, age 11, left Coq to seek his fortune in the world. He flew alone to Léo and was met there by an André friend who put him on a night flight to Brussels. He starts school Tuesday. He was dressed in a charcoal gray flannel suit with short pants that exposed most of his thighs, a tie, and a white shirt. (He would not take off the flannel coat, even though it was hot, because everyone would see the spots on his shirt.)

When Tom and I arrived Thérèse and Benoit were discussing his stopover in Athens. She said he must look for the “Acropole qui est très visible de l’air,” that he must buy some postcards to send everyone in Coq. He wondered: Would Belgian money buy him postcards? Would he have to change it into drachmas? I asked Madison (who always carries “green”) to give Benoit a dollar for postcards. “This is good anywhere in the world,” we told him. He stared at the dollar. A whole dollar. It was evidently just the thing to give him.

Benoit seemed both excited and sad to be going. But he didn’t cry. “I have the feeling he won’t spend that dollar,” said Thérèse. If it means something to him, I hope he doesn’t. He can keep it safe and take it out to impress his friends and to admire and comfort himself with when he feels little and lonely. After all, you are quite a man with a whole dollar of your own!

André family picnic: Jules, Thérèse, Jean-Luc, Martine and Benoit, standing

Thursday night Col Raudstein, the US military attaché, wanted to see Major Kwima so I hunted him up out at the Wangata Military Camp. (The Foreign Service is really an errand boy’s métier in spats and tails. The more successful you become the more delicate and complicated the errands, but they never stop being errands.) When I took Raudstein to the camp, we were led into a meeting including all the bigwigs in town, plus a stellar attraction, the ANC commander responsible for the mess in Lisala.

As I fed him a word or two of French when he faltered, Raudstein tried to convince these guys that there were enough men and equipment to hold out against an attacking force, particularly if an army coming up from Ikela were cut off from the ferry at Ingende. They couldn’t get it through their skulls. Numbers seemed the only thing that mattered – and reinforcements and complicated machinery. As the meeting progressed, the Lisala commander kept breaking in in Lingala to undermine what Raudstein and I were trying to say.

Raudstein told his new assistant that what he’d learned in the Congo was “patience and prejudice.” I agree that you learn something about patience. To me “prejudice” as he meant it is a stupid reaction to what one sees here. I came away from the meeting quite depressed with what seems the inevitable loss of Coq. But you can’t blame the Congolese. They live in a spirit-filled world incomprehensible to us. They talk in good faith about “fighting to the death” and they mean it, I think, when they say it – until the first bullet flies over their heads. Then it’s something else again. Sometimes you come away thinking: “Hell, let’s give it to the Chinese to see what they can make of it.”

Working hard and fast yesterday (Friday) we put out a report of findings of the attachés. We were able to tell the local population (1) that there were no rebels in the province, none at Lisala, none coming toward Ikela; (2) that there were probably no Chinese with the jeunesse elements that defeated a squad of ANC 15 kms northwest of Opala in Haut Congo (Stanleyville) province early in the week; (3) that there were enough supplies and men to defend Coq against rebel attack if (a big if) there was the will on the part of the Army and the population to do it; (4) that there were several strategic points of defense in the province; (5) that fleeing and pillaging ANC were being disarmed and sent to the Army camp at Irebu where they could do no more harm to the local population.

We heard the news last night that govt troops had staged an attack against Kindu in the west Kivu [in the eastern Congo]. ANC counterattacks in the Kivu will force regroupings of rebel troops, we assume. Thus, rebel pressure seems off us for an indefinite period of time. Where Wednesday evening I was planning to be evacuated in ten days and Thursday evening was depressed after witnessing the panic of the bigwigs, I’m now expecting to finish my tour in Coq.

That’s not to suggest, however, that the local situation is calm. Anything but. And I can’t tell you how thoroughly I’m looking forward to getting some relief from this in Europe. And seeing you. I leave here in 14 or 15 days….

Next post: The Situation gets worse – or at least it seems to.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part Three

Fred and Tom Madison try to understand The Situation. Not easy.

I made notes on the reverse of the letter 8/29/64 quoted in the last post. They said:

All Congolese talking of the rebels, calling each other Soumialot, for instance. [Gaston Soumialot was one of the leaders of the rebellion, a lieutenant of the Congo's executed first premier Patrice Lumumba.]

Strategy priorities (as relayed by Mowinckel and attachés):
1. Hold Léo, Luluabourg, Katanga
2. Recapture Bukavu, Albertville, maintain pressure in east.
3. Recapture Stan.
4. Hold Coq.
5. Hold the Ubangi. [The region north of Coq]

People being evacuated from Ubangi via Bangui [capital of the Central African Republic], to Coq, to Leo. A plane load came in as I waited with Andrés for Bugsmasher. MEU missionaries beaten up, their vehicle commandeered as they tried to get across at Bangui, Thursday a.m.

Rainy season has started. Heavy rains Thursday morning before sunrise, all morning Sunday. Haze gone. Sky has regained its clarity and lovely cloud formations. When sun shines, it’s hotter than for last 3-4 months. No haze? This dry season has been particularly long. Choruses of bullfrogs after a rain. Are they mating?

From a letter dated Wednesday, September 3 [1964]

Just a quick note to keep you informed. As usual the Situation is as complicated and fluid as ever. Sunday an Air Congo plane was shot at trying to land in Lisala and was forced to seek another airfield. Monday a C-130 passed through here on its way north to Gemena to leave ANC reinforcements. There have been troubles in Ubangi for about a week now.

Radio Bobcat (Embassy Léo) relayed the message from Top Hand (the Ambassador) that Sally Madison should return to Léo “on consultation.” This at 11:00 for a 2:30 departure. “I have nothing to tell the Ambassador,” said Sally and she has stayed. But the Madisons sent out two large footlockers and their VW. I sent out a crate of my “valuables:” my notebooks and files, linens, winter clothes, my overcoat and tux, and an ivory tusk. Three women missionaries and their children also went on the plane. Two will continue on to the States, the other waiting in Léo to see what developments bring.

Yesterday Tom decided that we should leave next Monday, in five days. The idea is to get a C-130 up here to take out us and our belongings and the most valuable Center equipment. We had a short meeting with the staff late yesterday. Today we began to pack movie projectors and speakers, the addressograph machine. This morning we delivered the bulk of our Nouveaux Horizons books to local schools (although this was a project already scheduled). I’d personally like to put some equipment on planks between the roof and the ceiling: folding metal chairs and other stuff that intense heat, humidity and affectionate rats would not harm. I presume we’d do this more or less covertly. You don’t really hide anything if two or three Congolese know where it is.

It’s now 5:15 Thursday morning. I couldn’t stay awake last night. We seem to do nothing all day but listen to the radio and try to piece out bases for intelligent decisions. It’s wearying, although not physically.

I am beginning to realize how itchily ready to get out of here Madison has been for several weeks. When he went to Léo ten days ago, I thought it was to clarify things about our operations. But I wonder now if Tom may not have been seeking permission to leave. “I can’t make your decisions for you!” the Deputy Chief of Mission was supposed to have shouted at him. Tom talked at some length, I gather, with Max Kraus, former BPAO in Stanleyville. Kraus feels that the USIS departure from Stan was handled in an unnecessarily hasty and disorderly way. Stan’s intelligence was good up till about three days before the town was taken; then the rebels outran the intelligence estimates. Kraus had to hotfoot it to the airport with what he could carry. Mike Hoyt (US Consul in Stan) & Co are now presumed to be in jail as hostages. Last message from Hoyt, assumed to be broadcast under duress, asked that US stop its support of Tshombe govt and its military aid. “It may mean our lives.”

Madison lays greater stress on monetary considerations than I do. He keeps wanting to get the equipment out. He suggested yesterday that I go through our library collections and withdraw all “expensive books.” I can imagine those “expensive books” getting tossed around a Léo warehouse, covered with dust and cobwebs, forgotten in a corner, sitting in water during the rainy season. I told Tom I thought it a good suggestion when its priority came around, which we agreed would be late. Yesterday when things turned critical in the Ubangi, Tom came back into the office feeling pleased with himself, feeling exonerated about what people have called his undue pessimism. He said: “I’m going to get my skin out whole and your skin and Sal’s and I’m going to get out some of the equipment!”

Street scene in the cités of Coquilhatville

Tom has checked with me right along to see if I agreed with his decisions and I do agree that as a USIS post we have all but lost our usefulness. Given that fact, it’s silly to take risks simply to stay in Coq. We know there are US hostages in Stan. We know also that there is no will to defend Coq from the rebels. It’s said that the town is full of jeunesse, armed with smuggled weapons. I happen to disincline to the possibility of some sudden combustion of these elements. I don’t think they’ll explode until they can work in conjunction with rebel army elements moving toward Coq. Past experience seems to have been that the jeunesse aided the rebel troops, but not before they were fairly close to the town. Tom stresses the advisability of a “graceful withdrawal.” That seems a funny way to describe an evacuation. It’s a plodder’s approach, I think; it lacks a little something of flair.

I told Tom yesterday that I thought it was a bit too early for us to make an evacuation, that it could do him professional harm. You “come out smelling like a rose” (to use his term) if you evacuate, particularly if with a suitcase and a few singed hairs. But if you get out too early, you look a little silly, regardless of how many machines you’ve brought with you. Maybe people oughtn’t to think this way, but they do, and you’re silly not to take account of it. His response was: “The professional harm is nothing compared to the physical harm of waiting too long.” Of course, there is no answer to that.

Of more concern to me is my fear that Tom will pull us out before the missionaries go. “I’ve been acting like a Consul up here,” he whines. “I’ve been acting like an intelligence officer.” To me, that seems a strange way to react to opportunity. “We have no diplomatic status,” he says. “It’s not my job to get these people out.” Well, I’ve been over this ground with both him and Sally, explaining my opinion that we are people working for our government and that our govt now needs us to do a consular job. I don’t care what the title is!

I told Tom I’d volunteer to stay on standing by the radio. “If you stay, I can stay,” he said. I told him I thought it would simplify things if Sally left. So she’ll probably start considering me a threat to her marriage. The thing that kills me about not looking at this situation as an opportunity is that it is exactly what Madison needs to get this promotion he bitches about. It’s the kind of opportunity that kicks a man one step up the line. He should be grateful for it.

Next post: As The Situation deteriorates, preparations for evacuation continue. Significant differences remain as to when it should occur.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part Four

As The Situation deteriorates, evacuation preparations go forward. Significant differences remain as to when an evacuation should occur.

[In preparing these blog posts, I’ve been aware that some passages of the letters quoted show a nastiness that does not reflect well on me. Some editors would excise it. But in times of extreme tension people get on each other's nerves. That’s the case here. There seems no point in publishing a memoir of stressful times, if we don’t see people reacting to that stress. So my apologies to colleagues of those difficult times if these posts cause heartache or offense. It’s almost 50 years later. I hope the intervening years have been good to you.]

Fred Hunter in Coquilhatville

Continuing from the letter of 9/3/64:

Beavering madly, Sally is collecting all lamps and rugs and govt linens for shipment to Léo. Strangely but truly, rugs have come to represent for me the dividing line between decent and intolerable living in Coq. I was unhappy about having to give mine up. When I balked, she agreed to “imagine” them in a trunk. “Where’s the second lamp?” she asked. “I’m using it.” “Oh.”

We got to talking about The Situation and I reiterated my feeling that we can’t leave before the missionaries. “I’m not leaving before anybody else,” she said, as if I had suggested that she and Tom were running away too fast. She suggested that the reason the Embassy was warning the missionaries now was so they could avail themselves of commercial transportation. (To which I say: “What incredible crap!”) I commented that the Embassy’s concern for the missionaries was quite different and in some ways opposed to what the missionaries themselves want. The missionaries, after all, have a considerable monetary and emotional investment in the Congo and are naturally reluctant to give it up. Sally hinted that I wasn’t being a loyal govt employee by suggesting that the govt had its own interests in this matter. Blatt. As if Loyalty to Your Employer was one of the Great Values.

Actually it amused me. Here was old Hunter sitting on his car fender in the sun analyzing opposing viewpoints about missionary rescues as a phenomenon in life to a poor distraught woman who saw the analysis as a threat to her husband’s sanity in his Difficult Job. This dessicated intellectual tried to break up her marriage earlier in the day; he accused her and her husband of cowardice and he was withholding lamps and rugs. You get the picture.

Calling Sally distraught is perhaps unfair. I have so little to worry about except for my skin. I keep forgetting there are differences in viewpoint and resiliency and adjustability between 30 and 46 (or 48 depending on whose figures you use). Sally has done a good, good job of keeping her figure (and I’m sure this is one of her Great Values). “That woman has had four children and her figure is still so tiny and petite!” said she one evening of Thérèse André. Sally still looks great in slacks and girlish dresses and one throws a compliment her way every now and then in general appreciation and in recognition of the preservation effort. (A living mummy of her girlhood.) Last Thursday at the airport she commented with a certain distaste at the plainness and chunkiness of missionary women. Going to Embassy Cocktail Parties has just taught her a different kind of life. I’m sure the missionaries find Sally pretty high style. “Does she drink a lot?” missionary Ron Sallade once asked me. The facial preservation has not been as successful as the other. Sometimes she looks her age, wrinkles chronicling the crises she’s battled through. The lines were out in full force yesterday. Enough nastiness.

Yesterday people in Gemena in Ubangi to the north of us began to realize their danger. The National Saviour, the ANC, commandeered the Air Congo flight out of the town leaving a number of civilians stranded at the airport. Only in the Congo. Two additional Air Congo planes promised for Gemena yesterday never arrived. People are there waiting to evacuate, people from Lisala and plantations as well as Catholic and Protestant missionaries. Tom radioed the word to Léo, using the lingo he loves: “That is two-seven uncle sugar missionaries in Gemena, that is golf echo mike echo november alpha…” Léo is getting mighty crowded with refugees and Uncle Sugar decided to get the two-seven out via Carbarn (Embassy Bangui).

Fortunately, the Gemena problems have given Dick Taylor the shove he’s needed to realize it’s time to get his missionary dependents out of Coq. While there—

(The letter breaks off here in mid-sentence. It’s picked up on the next page after we’ve evacuated and is dated Léo, Sunday 6 September 1964. It consists of accounts of intervening days.)

Next post: Fred warns the Andrés that the Americans intend to leave.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part Five

Questions from a couple of readers invite these prefatory remarks. As must be obvious, the posts draw extensively, sometimes completely, from letters written at the time things were happening. The Situation reads as more dangerous than it felt. I do not recall ever feeling afraid during this time. However, I was very conscious of not dramatizing my life.

The previous post indicated that we evacuated Coq. Was that the right move? In my judgment “Tom Madison” should have sent his wife “Sally” to Leopoldville, as instructed, and then manned the post in Coq in a manner that served US and Congolese govt interests. But he did not want to be in Coq. The Madisons trying to get everything out of Coq, the rugs, the lamps, even “the expensive books,” must have struck Tom as the proper move. But, in fact, he was dismantling the post, hoping – perhaps unconsciously – that he’d never have to return.

Tom pulled us out too early. Our departure hastened the deterioration of the situation in Coq. Other expats assumed that with all the US resources at our disposal we were well-informed about what was happening. Therefore our departure signaled an immediacy of danger that did not exist.

That’s how it seems 40+ years later. For how it seemed at the time, read on.

As The Situation worsens, Fred spends an evening with the Andrés.

Fred swimming with Martine André, age six, in the Congo River

Continuing with the letter from 9/3/64:

Tuesday evening, language study night. Dinner as usual chez les Andrés. Jules and Thérèse in fine form. All went well at dinner; no outbursts from Jules, no scoldings of Thérèse. Jokes about the College where Jean-Luc and Yves start school next week. Yves complains that all they’re fed at school is rice; they’re being sent to China. Jules asks the names of the priests at the school. Jean-Luc knows them only as le Père Prefet, le Père this, le Père that. All titles. Jules inquires: “Do you know le Père Petuel?” The guys shake their heads. “Le Père Ceptive?” Jules asks. The adults laugh behind their napkins and the kids finally get it.

For some reason after dinner we three adults discuss wine ceremonies of la vieille Europe. I laugh at the formality of it all. Thérèse, on edge and suddenly offended, leaves the table, saying she will not discuss it further in my presence. “What can one do if he has an ironic smile?” I ask her, alluding to her tale of being given demerits at school simply for smiling at the teacher. She returns to the table. Jules recounts wine formalities with his usual enthusiasm and involvement: the cave, the cushion of earth on its floor, the testing and tasting, home-bottling, securing the right kinds of cork. Jules tells of the curé who knew the origin of every wine. How he would pour wine into his hands and sniff. As he tells his story, Jules sits there: pouring, rubbing wine into his palms, taking deep sniffs.

I sit there feeling an obligation to warn these friends of Tom’s decision to evacuate. I finally tell them. An abrupt change of mood. Thérèse puts her head down on the back of her chair, sitting sideways in it, and says nothing, worried, fearful, feeling abandoned.

Immediately agitated, Jules paces back and forth, words spilling out, bending down to me to make a point (I’m next to Thérèse, also sideways in my seat). At last he sits across from us. Thérèse stares at three huge beetles, long as a man’s finger, that the kids have hung on a bar of the small table lamp, their wings as glossy as hard shells. The stingers work (and even look rather) like a thumb and forefinger and the beetles hang from them. Before dinner Jules referred to the beetles as Yves, Jean-Luc and Benoit and now Thérèse taps one after the other and says: “A. N. C.” She laughs like a mischievous girl and begins to break up a little wooden match-box, arranging the pieces in a circle.

Jules says to Thérèse: “If we have to go this time, it’s finished.” He speaks of Australia. No, he won’t go back to the small-mindedness of Belgium. Thérèse’s head remains on the chairback. Jules says Belgium and the US are crazy ever to have mixed into an inter-African squabble. We have different objectives, take war more seriously. Africans like to palaver, the whole thing might have arranged itself. In any case our intervention has not helped. Perhaps. But US policy forces intervention because, whereas we talk continually of non-intervention, intervention is our real policy.

He concludes by saying that if we must leave, he hopes that it will not be too soon. I say I’m afraid it will be. Suddenly exhausted, he says goodnight. He goes upstairs to take a sleeping pill and leaves me with his wife. Thérèse and I start to work on English. A regular length lesson, late starting, followed by tea. It’s mostly talk which she and I both need. I return home at 1:15. Late for Coq.

Next report: Tom Madison makes his decision.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part Six

Tom Madison decides that USIS will evacuate Coq.

More from the letter of 9/3/64:

Wednesday there seemed no reason for a precipitate departure. That evening some packing for the C-130 scheduled to take out some of our belongings. I also wanted to write down a log of what has been happening. But too tired. Despite lack of physical activity came home feeling bushed. Up Thursday morning at 4:30 to write log-letter.

Thursday morning. Nothing pressing at the office and I suggest to Tom that I go pack since we are thinking in terms of living out of suitcases. I get Joseph out of the house, asking him to wash the car, and work leisurely, cleaning out the upstairs bedroom I’ve used as a storeroom.

I find Thérèse outside the André office as I am putting the typewriter in the car. She tells me that she passed by the Duriers the previous evening and stayed a moment. Coopmans also there. They all asked her if the Americans were planning to leave. She hesitates. What can she say? But she has always proved an accomplished evader of direct questions and she tells them: “You can’t imagine the amount of stuff Americans bring to a place like Coq.” And it is true that she has been flabbergasted at all the junk that Sally has. “They are getting out some of their excess,” she explains. She laughs to me, pleased at this cunning evasion.

Packing finished, I do some errands. Stop at the Commisariat de Roulage to straighten out a traffic ticket. At Bogaerts to order a new tire for the car (the spare is no longer good). Over to missionary Ruth Reed’s to pick up eggs for Thérèse and me. In her magasin Ruth puts her entire collection of eggs into a large basket. “Give these all to Mme André,” she says.

“All of them?” I ask. “Why?”

“Aren’t you leaving today?” Ruth asks me.

“Are you leaving today?” I ask, amazed. This is the first I’ve heard of it.

“I heard everyone was leaving today,” says she.

Glugg.

I go down to the center. Engulu, finally returned from Léo, is in the office. Tom stands at the door of the radio room. I ask him: “Are we leaving today?” He begins to explain. But this is no time for explanation; I ask only for the order. He says that Engulu sees no possibility of defending Coq. Tom has called for a C-130. The plane will be in at 2:30. Things are in a high state of nervousness.

I zoom out to see Thérèse and Jules. Break the news to Thérèse. Jules is off in the chantier trying to fix the dredger half-sunk in sand. I give Thérèse the eggs and tell her that she and the children can accompany us to Léo on this evacuation flight if she wishes. Momentarily she’s caught up in the temptation. “No, if I start running, I will never stop,” she says. I know exactly what she means.

Leaving, I pass our man Raphael who has a note for Thérèse from Sally. I take the note to her; it asks her to come immediately to the Madisons. Thérèse offers to explain to Joseph in Lingala that I must leave, but first she will pack a valise; I’ve offered to carry it down to Léo.

Go out to see Jules at the dredger. He has filthy hands and offers me his wrist to shake. I tell him that Tom has ordered our evacuation. “This is a mistake,” he says. “The Congolese will think you’re abandoning them.” He asks me to come for lunch if there is time. I ask him to come to the airport.

At the house I start Joseph wrapping the dishware. I pack suitcases. Thérèse arrives with the footlocker for the Andrés’ pied-a-terre in Leo. In sort of typical André style only one of the two hasps works. But bound with filament tape the footlocker stays closed. Thérèse explains all to Joseph and I give him a month’s salary (CF 2500), the ticket for the bike tires I’ve ordered for him from Bouks (due in the end of July, they have not yet arrived) and some old clothes. Thérèse goes to help Sally.

I finish packing by 12:30 and return to the office to pay the boys. We’ve told them to stay through the lunch hour, but two have gone. Pay Ahenga Raphael and Edouard, making petty cash receipts for each. Pay each two periods in advance.

Pass by the Madisons to pick up a sandwich and rendezvous with Tom before going to the airport. Everything is more or less chaos chez les M. Thérèse is the only person working in an organized, nerveless fashion. Tom screams at everyone. Sally is packing as she did last Monday when the place was a mess, her houseboys running every which way trying to get things done. Once again she has thrown everything all over the living room. She’s indulging an innate sense of drama. No wonder the boys are upset, scared, panicky; they take their cue from her. I get instructions and zip out to the airport. The plane – a Hercules C-130 – roars over just as I am leaving the Madisons.

Ndjili airport, Leopoldville, after the evacuation

Out at the airport the crew wonders what is happening. They’ve been deflected from a flight going from Katanga into Luluabourg to come get us. How many people? Who will they be? What’s the local military situation? I can’t answer this last. The only report I’ve heard all morning is that eight truckloads of rebels passed Mondombe earlier in the day. There’s also been talk of rebels only a little east of Boende.

Go back to the Madisons. Tom has returned to the Center. Sally asks me to boost his morale, to reassure him he’s done the right thing. In deciding earlier in the day not to question his decisions (a superior deserves at least that much support from an underling in a crisis), I’ve suspended my sense of analysis. At the center we are still trying to pay the boys. My job. Tom collects our pertinent files.

Everyone being paid, there is nothing more to do at the office. I take the truck and get my stuff out to the field and loaded onto the C-130. Missionaries begin to arrive. I talk to Betty Erlewine, asking if DCCM leader Dick Taylor and the other men have decided to go. She doesn’t know; it’s still up in the air.

Back in town we finally get the Madisons organized. Both the André pick-up and the Center Power Wagon are loaded to the gills with tiny boxes of God only knows what, every conceivable thing. It seems strange that, coupled with this hurried decision to evacuate, there should be this unwillingness to leave the tiniest thing behind. If we are really so concerned about the burden of the American lives that hangs so heavily on us in our unwonted consular function, why are we so concerned about saving plastic plates? Why so preoccupied with sending out the center equipment? The Ambassador himself has said, “Screw the equipment!”

Sally emerges. My god! She’s dressed to call on an Ambassador’s wife. She’s in one of those girlish frocks. Bien coiffed. The switch that’s peryoxide-streaked just like her own hair rests on her head like a crown. The wrinkles that made her look so overcome by events yesterday are under control; she’s taken ten years off her age. Fresh lipstick. Even the goddamned green mascara. What is this: an evacuation or a social occasion? Next to her Thérèse looks tired, worried. Who has really done the packing?

“Sally,” I tell her, “I have never seen anyone looking so nice for an evacuation!” Shame on me! But I don’t approve of anyone looking so modish in a crisis. If her husband really needs assurance that we are leaving A Dangerous Situation, why does she look like something out of Vogue? (That’s probably why he loves her. Perhaps that’s reassurance he really needs.) As my irony-edged compliment reaches her, Sally turns on her high heels and her face lights up with such pleasure at what she, a woman (almost 50), can still do to a man (hardly 30). How can you disapprove, even in a crisis, of someone as easy to make happy as that?

We begin to get people and their belongings onto the plane. DeChalan from the Hévea plantation in Bikoro has a Dutch woman with an injured leg and an infant he wants sent out. He also gives me a letter urging light plane evacuation of the other women in Bikoro. The Hobgoods and a British family of four come in on the Basankusu plane and evacuate with us. Will Dick Taylor go? I’m concerned that if he doesn’t, Tom won’t and Sally in her turn will refuse to go. Is it that Sally refuses to leave without Tom? Or that Tom won’t stay without Sally? Dick’s aware of this; I’ve made sure he is. Fortunately, everyone is to go.

Jules André is nowhere to be found. I go search for him. The waiting room is as crowded as it was the afternoon Benoit left. Two planes come in this afternoon. A concerned-looking Herman [the Center’s landlord, an early critic of US presence in Coq] calls to me, his disapproval obvious on his face. I can’t find Jules anywhere. I say hello to the taciturn Houzé. “Vous partez?” he asks me. “Oui.” We say nothing more. His expression hardly changes, and he does not even look at me so much as at the huge plane out on the field. It’s big enough to put a house inside.

Still that small exchange makes me realize what the Europeans will think: that we’ve fled. (I feel that is what Houzé would call it). Unable to find Jules, I seek out Herman. He’s concerned about his building and I explain the set-up to him: Rent continues as usual, Edouard has the keys, we will correspond with him, when necessary, through regular channels until they are cut off, then through his bank. Tom went over this with me earlier in the day, wanting to push the Herman visit off on me. Herman tells me, “There are 100 women and children who should be gotten out of here.” He’s obviously concerned about his wife and children. He says that Jules has gone into town to write a letter to the Belgian Embassy seeking evacuation facilities for Belgians. He does not return before the plane leaves.

The flight down was no sweat, about an hour and a half. Hank Clifford, branch post coordinator, USIS Admin officer Charlotte Loris and Mowinckel’s secretary Marge Eckels met us at the plane. I’m staying at a basement apartment at the Cliffords; they are three weeks away from leaving, their tour finished. Thye’ve just had their sixth child. Dinner Thursday night with them, the new BPAO in Eville Ralph Smith and two contract English teachers whose courses with the ANC were recently cancelled.

Early to bed to read my mail and get some sleep. It’s been arranged that I will fly north the next day, first, to Gemena and then back to Coq to help evacuate refugees. If you are a good boy, you get to evacuate twice.

Next post: Fred flies the next day to evacuate missionaries from Gemena and friends from Coquilhatville.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part Seven

Tom Madison, the USIS officer in charge of the American Cultural Center in Coquilhatville in the northwest Congo, decided to evacuate the post in the face of rebel advances toward Coq. The evacuation impacted the American reputation in the town. But was it truly justified? An account of the immediate aftermath:

After we arrived in Léo, Tom and I drove in to give a report to the Embassy’s Political Section. There was “surprise” that we had come out so soon. Tom began justifying himself, bad tactics in my judgment. Dick Matheron, down on consultation from Bukavu, asked me if I’d like to come up to USIS Bukavu. I encouraged his interest (why not?) although I said I was taking off for Europe as soon as possible. A C-130 was scheduled to fly into Coq the next day (9/4) and I decided to hitch a ride in order to help any Belgian women and children who wanted to evacuate. Sent a radio message via UN radio to Jules.

Next day we flew up to Gemena with a planeload of ANC reinforcements for the Ubangi. Gemena’s a tiny town in the middle of nowhere. We flew over endless miles of scrub country under a dark sky. The pilot suddenly sighted the airstrip, pointed to it and we headed in. Barrelled in low and fast over the runway to check that it was safe to land, then we circled, came in and put down just long enough to get the troops off.

I sought out the MEU representative, an African-American missionary. “How’re things up here?”

“Everything’s pretty calm.”

“Your people getting out to Bangui?”

“Most of ‘em. I’m staying on for a while.”

At Gemena: offloading ANC soldiers, onloading refugees

Wished we could have had a real chat. As we left Gemena, Congolese tried to rush onto the loading ramp. Paratroop guards had to point rifles at them to discourage them from boarding.

As I expected in Coq, there were no Europeans stuffing the runways waiting to get out. The Andrés’ white BMW was there with Thérèse and the kids all ready to go. Since there was time, we went back to the house and had some lunch together. The kids seemed excited by the prospect of flying in the big plane, but had no sense of evacuation. It was just a convenient way to get to Léo. Thérèse was to have taken the kids down via Air Congo the next day anyway to put Jean-Luc and Yves into school.

During lunch Jules complained that my message had made him the man to see for evacuation. “Portuguese kept coming to me this morning, saying: ‘We understand that we have to see you, M. André, to get a place on the plane.’” Very important in the colon minds not to have been the first to run. I’d compromised Jules’ continued stature in the community.

But he’s been sympathetic to my situation. He spoke of “brave types” suffering in ‘60 when their panicky bosses yanked them out. He feels we pulled out too early, too hastily, thought we’d have difficulty returning at a later time to re-establish ourselves. The Congolese and Belgians will not respect our values, he feels; they’ll think we ran too fast. After this lunch I felt Tom and I (or one of us) should return to Coq to man the Center and act as a listening post until the town is more obviously threatened than it had been so far.

During dessert Maitre Herman came in, seeming like a child who hangs around another family’s house at meal times. He was, however, duly offered a beer which he took. Seeing me, he gestured thumbs-up. We shook hands and the depth of his gratitude seemed embarrassingly close to the surface, particularly since he’d been so critical of us yesterday. (After he left, we laughed about this. “Today it’s thumbs up for the Americans,” said Jules. “And yesterday it was thumbs down!” I added.) Herman asked to speak privately to Thérèse. We all knew he was asking her to keep an eye on his wife. Finally they returned. Thérèse looked rather as if she’d been raped – although she’d known all along that this favor would be asked of her. She seemed surprised she’d survived. Herman smiled, relieved, and shook hands all around; he gestured thumbs up again and left. Thérèse kept mumbling about “cette personne” and her “crise de nerfs,” at least it was “crise de nerfs” before the children.

At the airfield Mme Herman was sloppy drunk. She’s never struck me as the sort of woman who belongs in the Congo. Her mind’s too sharp, too raffiné. Trained as a lawyer herself she worked up her husband’s briefs. But her unusually alert mind seemed to unbalance her, deprive her of adaptability to Congo life. She’s been an occasional victim of “crise de nerfs,” as it’s called in town, and I’d heard whispers about the problem. Now she could hardly talk. She kept walking around, her hair frizzy and sticking out on all sides, dragging a coat and complaining loudly to her husband that she had left out of her suitcases “the new blue blouse that you’ve never seen.” Herman called after her ineffectually to get her to remain at the car until the crew was ready to load passengers. Her two children, smart-alecky types, alert but undisciplined, danced around getting in the way, the little girl coming up to shake hands with me five times a minute and calling out, “Bonjour, Monsieur!” in a sing-song voice. Poor kids. Their mother probably embarrassed them to death. At one point after take-off the boy finally said, “Shut up, Maman.”

In handling evacuees one grows accustomed to seeing people stripped of all their defenses. I was pleased how everyone made the best of the situation Mme Herman created. The officers and crew members were solicitous, walked her onto the plane, assured her that all baggage would be taken care of. We boarded fathers and sisters from the Catholic Mission in Lisala, trying to get their names and nationalities so they could be radioed to the various consular officers in Léo. Most of these missionaries are Flemish, blond, with faces right out of Van Eyck, Memling and Breughel. They’re stubborn and contrary. Finally got them all on.

The Herman kid comes zipping out at his mother’s request in a final effort to do something about the new blue blouse. I take a head check. Thérèse sits in the dark front of the plane, “cette personne” beside her, talking confusedly to its not quite certain whom. Thérèse sits stiffly forward, clutching Martine, staring straight ahead. All seats are taken; some men must sit on the floor. They clutch the freight lining the center of the plane on take-off and landing. With the center aisle full of freight, there’s no room for my car.

Outside a crowd of Congolese wants to board the plane. Many of them get nasty when I do not allow them on. Since I am the only American who speaks French, I’m charged with selecting and loading passengers. The Congolese insist: “These are our planes,” or “These planes are under the control of the Congolese govt,” or “It is not right to evacuate Europeans when there are Congolese wanting to leave,” or “This is a proof that the US is a racist country.”

This last charge irritates me. I tell them that another C-130 is coming in. They don’t believe me. Fortunately, as the first one is about ready to take-off, the second arrives. We end up boarding most anybody with a legitimate reason to go: Army people, more European evacuees, the President of Moyen Congo province and two of his ministers. He looks like a college student dressed in a sport shirt and slacks; it’s all he could get out of Lisala with, he tells me. Even take the wife of a local provincial minister who carries an infant and a huge washtub full of possessions, the whole business wrapped up in mammy cloth.

Next post: Fred tries to wangle a return to Coquilhatville.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, Running from Rebels, 1964, Part Eight

As it becomes clearer to Fred that Madison’s precipitate evacuation from Coq may damage his reputation, he tries to wangle a return to the Equateur. The reaction in Léo: Get lost!

Evacuating refugees from Coq: in the plane flying back to Léo, I become more and more convinced that Jules is right. If we do not return almost immediately to Coq – even if it means living out of a packed suitcase and doing nothing but tending the radio – we may jeopardize our entire investment in the town. An American presence must be there, I feel, until things get a great deal worse than they are at present. Tom radios the plane, wanting to know if he can pick me up at the airport. I suggest he come without Sally so that we can seriously discuss the possibility of a return.

But when we arrive, Sally is there with him. Madison’s handling himself badly. He still needs support that he’s done the right thing, but I begin to suspect he does not want to go back merely out of fear for Sally. He’s afraid. He dismisses my suggestion of a return. We’ll jeopardize our investment, I argue. Then I realize it’s an investment to which he has contributed almost nothing. Despite his protests – “I can get along just fine in Coq. What do I care if the job’s below my capabilities?” – probably he’s wanted to get out all along.

I try to suggest that he not justify his decisions. As the man on the spot he knew better than Léo people what was best for our personal safety. Justification only places questions in the listener’s mind. But assuming a positive stance, exuding confidence, takes more political savvy and more brazenness than Tom possesses. Instead, he wants every sympathetic ear to hear the story. He’s even begun to say: “I’ve been criticized.” “Oh, no!” reply his listeners. “Not really!” And they go away mulling the criticism. Sometimes Tom obligingly details the charges.

Back in town I want to see Mowinckel to tell him we must get back. He’ll still be at the office, if I can get there. But instead I get involved in settling Thérèse and the kids into the pied-à-terre. (I’m happy at last to be able to do something for the Andrés who’ve done so much for me.) But by the time we’ve delivered luggage and gotten keys and made certain that Mme Herman is set up, it’s well past 7:30. I’ve missed Mowinckel. There’s some big ball at the DCM’s house to which he will surely be going.

A C-130 loads refugees at the Coquilhatville airport

I can’t see Mowinckel the next day either. He’s entertaining USIA wheels from Washington. Tom tells me he’s been informed of my feelings and wants to hold off for now. I go over to the Embassy to try to sell the idea of our return to Political. One of the girls in Personnel greets me cheerily: “You were afraid up there, weren’t you?” Even though she knows nothing of the situation, the implied criticism stings me. Our manhood’s being called into question.

As I’m giving my pitch to the Political Section, Tom walks in on other business. (I give the guy real credit for being so patient with a subordinate who’s trying hard to force him into a spot where he doesn’t want to be and who’s undermining his confidence.) We leave POL together. He says nothing till we’ve driven to USIS. Then he counsels: “I don’t think it’s wise to talk about a return to POL. State has different objectives than USIS. Let them send their own man.”

Sunday night there is a cocktail party at Mowinckel’s apartment for the USIA wheels. Tom is looking worse and worse. The ravages of worry are showing in his face; his skin has grown flabby, pasty; he’s lacking sleep; his manner is defensive. He smiles obligingly to everyone, courting support wherever he can find it. But his spirits have somewhat revived due to a rumor that Boende has fallen to the rebels. “There’s nothing like experience, old boy,” he tells me with the ingratiating, exonerated closed-mouth smile that reduces his eyelids to mere slits.

At the end of the party Mowinkel tells me he hears I want to go back. With the air of a parent soothing an excited child, he advises: “Calm down. Let’s not think about it now.” What I think about it is: to hell with the whole thing.

After Mowinckel’s cocktail I go with the Madisons to Thérèse André’s pied-à-terre. The kids are already asleep on the floor, stretched out on air mattresses. With Thérèse are M. and Mme Nizet; he’s a conseiller working closely with Justin Bomboko, an Independence-era politician from the Equateur who still has influence. The Nizets have spent much time in the Equateur and Monsieur wants detailed information about the situation in Coq. We get out a map and go over what we know. Nizet feels that the Central Govt must act to save Coq. Bomboko’s the logical man to push this aid. Not that Coq is particularly worth saving in itself. But it’s the gateway to Léo. Its fall could have tremendous psychological impact.

Nizet and I get into cars. He leaves his wife at home and I follow him out beyond the city into the suburb of Djelo Binza. Nizet has a casual appointment with Bomboko, but he’s not home. The night guard doesn’t know where he is. Nizet goes inside to call around and returns ten minutes later having found no one. We wait, chatting. Nizet says it is always like this. Much important business is conducted at night, at midnight conferences such as this one would be. But often ministers go out without leaving word of their destination. Finally there seems no more point in waiting. It’s almost midnight. I try to reassure Nizet of my willingness to help in any way. We drive back into town.

Early Tuesday I receive a phone call from California, where it’s 3:00 a.m. Tootie, Dad and Bob [my twin brother] have tried all night and most of Labor Day to get the call through. Plans are all set for me to meet Tootie and Dad in Rome. All seem relieved I’m out of Coq, Tootie especially. She’s glad I will be in Paris tomorrow. They’ll get ready for their trip in peace. Not to have them worried about me is a relief and compensates in part for my disappointment in leaving Coq.

What was Donanne doing at this time? Having returned from a summer with her parents at their Foreign Service posts in Cambodia and Malaysia, Donanne arrived at UCLA to begin a year-long master’s degree course in Library Science.

Next post: Fred does not go to Paris the next day.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA: CONGO, In Limbo in Léo, 1964, Part One

Fred Hunter was evacuated from his post as a USIS officer at the American Cultural Center in the northwest Congo at the orders of the senior officer Tom Madison. Fred felt the evacuation was precipitate and jeopardized the investment he and the US had made in the town. He agitated to return. His account:

Fred Hunter

Late August, 1964

On Tuesday morning I concentrate on getting the Wednesday evening plane out to Europe – although I still feel we should return to Coq. I accompany Charlotte Loris, the USIS admin officer, to the APO to pick up mail. I have the feeling that Charlotte – who has always seemed so loyal – is casting off her moorings to me. Suddenly I realize that criticism of Tom’s decision to evacuate can attach itself to me. (“Well, Hunter was there; surely they must have talked this over.” Or: “Why didn’t he stay then if he thought the evacuation was premature?”)

I also begin to understand that in a bureaucracy success and survival are achieved partially on the basis of disassociating yourself from the mistakes of others. This produces a sick feeling in my stomach when I think that all my work in Coq, my struggles and loneliness and hard times, will come to nought in the stigma of this criticism. I discuss the matter briefly with Charlotte. We talk turkey. She advises me to make it clear to Mowinckel that I had no part in the decision to leave.

My opportunity comes when John calls me into his office. I sit down and he says: “I’m wondering what you want to do when you come back from leave, Fred.”

“It doesn’t matter particularly,” I tell him. “I’d rather have a project than be assigned to odd jobs.”

“I thought we’d put you to working in Press.”

“That’s fine.” It sounds like odd jobs. Phil Mayhew, my evacuated counterpart from Stan, has been writing picture captions for about a month. Nervously I start: “Say, John, I–” I’m looking down at my hands. “I want you to realize that I wasn’t consulted in the decision that brought us out of Coq.”

“Oh, I understand that.”

“You know I think we ought to return.”

“Well, I couldn’t go to the Ambassador with that the day after you evacuated. He’d have gone through the roof.”

“I’d like to go back. I’m afraid we may lose everything we’ve put in there. We can’t expect our audiences to accept our information if they don’t respect us.”

“What’s this with Madison? He won’t go back without his wife?”

“Something like that.”

“You go on to Europe. You’ve been looking forward to this vacation.”

A solitary lunch. The idea that the Coq experience should end in failure and vague disgrace depresses me. I’m nervous as I eat.

Back at the office I approach Mowinckel. “Look, John, why don’t you let me postpone my vacation?”

“What about your plans?”

“I haven’t any specific plans until mid-October when I meet my parents in Rome. What if I went back up until, say, October 10?”

“Let me check this out with the Country Team.” He calls Colonel Raudstein, the US military attaché. Mowinkel quotes him as saying: “Hunter can do a better job than that horse’s ass you’ve got in charge up there.” Mowinckel will discuss the matter with the Ambassador and let me know the outcome.

Before dinner a message to call Hank Clifford, the Branch Post Corrdinator. I phone him from Thérèse’s pied-à-terre. The Ambassador, he tells me, has approved my return to Coq. I’m to hitch a ride the next morning on Bugsmasher, the six-seat military attaché plane. It’s flying to the Equateur to get a situation report on Boende. I’m delighted. Relieved to feel the worry drop away, pleased to have another chance to prove myself in Coq. And yet at times in Léo I’ve noticed a tiny, almost secret feeling of relief that I no longer have to face the uncertainties of Coq. Now I have to face them again and without even a radio. (Bucks-conscious Madison made sure we brought that out.) Still I haven’t wanted to feel that I run the first time in my life that I’m confronted with danger. Do I think I’m living in a movie? Let’s hope not.

Next post: Fred’s allowed to return to Coq. But is this wisdom? Or folly?